Alpaca

Fibre: True alpaca is a hair fibre from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.
Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.
Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon.
Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.

Ande

One yard and nine inches of warp thread

Angora

Fibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.
Weave: Various weave and knitted.
Characteristics: Very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair.
Uses: Used mostly in knitwear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.

Arca

Green peach tree branch with a string fastened from end to end to form a bow, used to remove small particles of dirt and debris from cotton and to unravel matted cotton to a soft fiber; an Osage orange branch bow used as an alternative to a green peach tree branch for the same purpose; bow, arch

Armored

Fibre: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.
Characteristics: Design is often in two colours and raised. The name was derived from original fabric, which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment during the Crusades.
Uses: a rich looking dress fabric, draperies, or upholstery

Art Linen

Fibre :Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish.
Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.

Astrakhan

Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back.
Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caraculs lambskin forms the Astrakhan section of Russia.
Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

Aune

One yard and nine inches of warp thread

Barathea

Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

Batiste

Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.

Battoire

An implement used in the washing of clothing, wedge-shaped with a handle extending from the larger side of the wedge, carved from a single piece of wood

Bayadere

Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).
Characteristics: Has brightly coloured stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The colour effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India . Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India , dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets.
Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.

Beaver Cloth

Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled.
Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.
Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.

Bedford Cord

Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes stuffing emphasizes the ribs.
Characteristics: Both Bedford , England and New Bedford , Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Have various qualities and weights.
Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

Bengaline

Fibre: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.
Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.
Characteristics: First made of silk in Bengal , India . Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton dilling in the ribs, which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually 40" wide.
Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth, draperies. A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist.

Birdseye

Fibre: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton.
Weave: Usually dobby
Characteristics: Very soft, lightweight, and absorbent. Woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good towelling. Also "novelty" birdseye effects used as summer dress fabrics.

Blanket Cloth

Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol , England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.

Board

a warp box

Bobine

A bobbin; a bobbin, spool, reel; a bobbin, spool

Bôite

Box, case; box, chest, can

Bôite à ourdir

a standing cypress or oak rack with horizontal iron rods that hold up to twenty corn cobs wound with thread; a warping

Bolivia (Elysian)

Fiber: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.
Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
Characteristics: Pile face, which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.

Bombazine

Fibre: Usually have silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade

Boucle

Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres.
Weave: Any weave, knit.
Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.

Bouleau

A skein of yarn

Bouton

A projecting nub or "button," achieved through hand-manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons; button

Boutonné

a type of fabric used for coverlets, incorporating boutons,usually all white, often with netted, fringed edging

Broadcloth

Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.

Broadcloth, Habotai

Same as China Silk except heavier; wrinkles less; good for shirts weight: medium (10 mm) up

Brocade

Fibre: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of after 5 wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.

Brocatelle

Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics.
Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth.
Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the XIIIth and XIVth Century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns, which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.
Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds of after 5 wear.

Broche

a spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch.

Brosse

- a spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch

Buckram

Fibre: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Cheap, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or bookbinding. Name from Bokhara in Southern Russia , where it was first made.
Uses: Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often coloured is called "tarlatan". Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.

Calebasse

A large hollow gourd used to hold cotton fiber during seeding and carding; a utility bowl for fibers; a gourd

Calico

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain - usually a low count.
Characteristics: Originated in Calcutta , India , and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in colour. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print".
Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts.

Cambric

Fibre: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria , France of linen and used for Church embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.

Camel Hair

Fibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.
Weave: Twill or plain.
Characteristics: Underhair is best. It is lightweight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended.
Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs.

Candlewick Fabric

Fibre: Cotton - also wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar).
Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beachwear.

Cannette

A spool

Canton Flannel

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Four-harness warp-faced twill weaves.
Characteristics: The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produce a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton , China where it was first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.
Uses: Interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.

Canvas

Fibre Linen, cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plyed yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.
Uses: Tents, sails, mailbags, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.

Cardes

Cards, used for carding, aligning, fibers; a tool purchased from commercial producers; a carding brush; a card, a tool used to comb wool, cotton, etc.

Cashmere ( Kashmir )

Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India , Tibet , Iran , Iraq , and South west China . Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights.
Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses.

Cavalry Twill

Fibre: Woolen or worsted.
Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastic but elastic is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.

Chaîne

weaving warp threads; a term denoting all of the warp ends in a textile; a chain

Challis (Chalys)

Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India , Tibet , Iran , Iraq , and South west China . Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any othe hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights.
Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

Chambray

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground.
Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and coloured warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft colouring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai , France , where it was first made for sunbonnets.
Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.

Chamois Cloth

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be designated as "cotton chamoise-colour cloth".
Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.

Chamoisette

Fibre: Cotton, alos rayon and nylon.
Weave: Knitted, double knit construction.
Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk".
Uses: Gloves.

Charmeuse

Cheesecloth

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.
Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths.
Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes and basket tops.

Chenille Fabric

Fibre: Cotton and any of the main textile fibres.
Weave: Mostly plain weave.
Characteristics: Warp yarn of any major textile fibre. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling.
Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.

Cheviot

Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crese and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed.
Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.

Chiffon (French for "rag")

Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta.
Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.

China Silk

Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.
Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings and could be used for blouses.

Chinchilla

Fibre: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chincilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting bags. In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.

Chino

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill (left hand)
Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washs and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Uses: Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.

Chintz

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colours. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand drycleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric".
Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.

Cisele Velvet

A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in 

cut and uncut loops.

Corduroy

Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibres.
Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.
Characteristics: Made with an extra filling 

yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick n'thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths. Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is ashable and wears very well. Has a soft lustre.
Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear, men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.

Covert

Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) adn filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight.
Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

Crash

Fibre Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is sstrong, irregular in diametre but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.

Crepe

Fibre: Worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.
Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harch dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Crepe de Chine

Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.  

Weight:- 14 mm popular but inferior; 16 mm is good blouse weight, heavier available

Crepon

Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints.
Uses: Dresses and ensembles.

Crettone

Fibre: Cotton, linen, rayon.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Finished in widths from 30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright colours and patterns. The fabric has no lustre (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely cover the surface.
Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers, coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.

Damask

Fibre Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds.
Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.
Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus . In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly in linen.
- Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of damask table cloths:
1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around 200.
2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400.
- The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use

Denim

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: Name derived from French "serge de Nimes ". Originally had dark blue, brown or dark grey warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colours with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights.
Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even been used for evening wear.

Dimity

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect.
Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping. Made of combed yarn adn is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It is mercerized and has a soft lustre.
Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses, infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, basinettes, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.

Dobby

Made with a special loon that crates small, geometric figures Weight: - usually expensive fabric

Doeskin

Fibre: Wool and also rayon.
Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave.
Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin weave.
Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

Domett Flannel

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill
Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or lightweight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.
Uses: Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.

Donegal

Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal , Ireland . A rough adn ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England .
Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look

Dotted Swiss

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.
Characteristics: Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil or a lawn.
Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.

Double-face Satin

Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

Doubleknit

Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the rigth side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence . Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

Doupion, Douppioni

Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested toghether. In spinning, teh double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diametre in places.
Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

Drill

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the grey but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name.
Uses: Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.

Duchess

An 8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36" wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.

Duck

Fibre: Cotton. Originally made in linen.
Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Also called canvas. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed, printed or painted. Washable, many are waterproof and wind proof. Made in various weights.
Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses

Dupionni

other related terms: dupion, douppioni, shantung; fabric containing slubs, uneven; forms when two silk worms make their cocoons at the same time thus joining together.

Duvetyn(e)

Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft.
Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembleing a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

Eponge (Souffle)

Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and spongelike in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits

Fabric Terms

There are many types of silks. Listed below are a few of the more popular ones found in the US . To assess a silk one needs to consider three factors. They are: Silk Type, Silk Weight, and Silk Weave. Silks of the same type might have different characteristics because of different weights or weaves. For example, Crepe de Chine, one of the most popular fabrics for women's blouses, come in a variety of weights. Generally speaking, we feel that a Crepe de Chine of a 14 momme weight is inferior and will not show off all the best characteristics of the fabric. Thus, we only carry a weight of 16 momme or higher in our ready-to-wear line. However, many department stores and especially discount stores will carry Crepe de Chine blouses of 14 momme. These blouses may be advertised as 100% silk (which they are) but will not perform satisfactory as a garment. Likewise, with the so-called washable silks. If they are made from an 8 or 10 momme weight fabric (usually China Silk), they will wrinkle easily and generally wear out rapidly. Silks are naturally strong and wrinkle resistant. If your silk garment does not have these characteristics check their weight or weave.

Fabric Weaves

Silks are woven fabrics. Fabric weave helps determine such characteristics as strength and durability or the fabric as well as beauty. Since silk is so strong naturally, less durable weaves may be used to achieve a particular look not capable in other fabrics.

Faconne

Fibre: Silk or rayon.
Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.
Characteristics: Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer than teh designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.

Faconne Velvet

Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.

Faille

Fibre: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than gros grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats

Faille Taffeta

Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

Felt

Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Not woven but felted.
Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts

Fil

thread or yarn

Flannel

Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.

Flannelette

Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill.
Characteristics: A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured stripes.
Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.

Flat Crepe

Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well.
Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings

Fleece

Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

Foulard

Fibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.
Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down.
Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India .
Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade

Française

French

Frise

Fibre: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.
Weave: Pile (looped).
Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.
Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transporation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Fris